The Virginian-Pilot
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NORFOLK
Franco's By the Bay is a misnomer.
The Italian restaurant in Norfolk's Ocean View area should be called Franco's By the Asphalt Parking Lot Across the Street From the Bay.
You won't find beachside views from the restaurant's windows. Or the sophisticated aesthetics of the modern foodie movement. But Franco's does have the kind of warm and inviting aromas that wrestle you into ordering from its open kitchen.
The original Franco's, called Franco's Italian Restaurant, has been feeding people since 1985 in Bromley Shopping Center on North Military Highway and recently celebrated its 28th anniversary. John Musiello was the man with the plan, and son Franco now runs both shows.
On a recent Tuesday night, my boyfriend and I tried the Ocean View location. We were welcomed by the freshly scrubbed and perky waitress Crystal, who asked for our drink order. Sure, we could have the house burgundy, rose or Chablis by the glass, half or whole carafe, but she also had a wine list with some nice selections. We opted for the smooth and chocolaty 2008 St. Francis Merlot ($35) and sipped while taking stock of our surroundings.
This place is unassuming on the outside and all warm, friendly and family-oriented on the inside. There were folks in sweat suits, families enjoying tempting-looking pizzas and two well-dressed couples out for date night.
Having no preference for what was on the menu, I asked Crystal for suggestions and she hit two home runs.
The first was the fried zucchini appetizer ($7.95), a plateful of delicately breaded and golden-fried discs served with a red wine sauce. They arrived too hot to eat, but after a cool-down they were fresh and mild and tasted of summer. The second was The Franco's Trio ($18.95), one pounded chicken breast and one slice of veal parmigiana, and two of eggplant, served with a side of spaghetti,linguine, rigatoni or penne.
Crystal asked if I was a twirler or a stabber, to help me choose my pasta. Definitely a twirler. The trio arrived bubbling hot and practically covering the plate. The chicken, veal and eggplant were tender inside, and the crunch of the breading was perfection - even with the sauce and cheese on top.
Chef Robie Ronase said the secret of that crunch is that everything is prepared and cooked to order. Nothing is made ahead, except that the pasta is partially cooked, then cooked again per order. Each parm item is individually breaded, then individually fried to a crispy golden crunch.
After it's assembled on the plate, he ladles on fresh red sauce and generous slices of mozzarella, then runs it under the broiler for a gooey melt.
The Chicken Marsala ($14.50) ran the risk of being compared to my boyfriend's mom's version. It wasn't quite as good - but really close. The pasta was perfectly cooked al dente, the tender chicken had that smoky-sweet taste from the Marsala wine. When combined with the buttery mushroom sauce, the dish put a close-your-eyes-happy smile on his face.
Crystal let us pace our meal by not putting in our entree orders until we had finished and savored the appetizer and wine. When asked about the Pescatore of mussels, clams and shrimp and the Flounder Francese, she said they are served Fridays only, until they run out, because mussels and flounder come in fresh every Friday.
As we were gathering boxed leftovers and getting ready to leave, I noticed a table of three gentlemen who were laughing and talking over their meal. I went over, introduced myself and asked if they came often and what they thought of Franco's By the Bay.
Ed Fiorella said he and the boys come to Franco's at least three times a week, then bring their wives for the Flounder Francese.
"Heck. We know we at least pay their light bill," Fiorella laughed.
Judy Cowling, jcowling3@cox.net
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the spot
Franco's By the Bay, 169 W. Ocean View Ave., Norfolk
the vibe
Family-friendly Italian eatery
to try
The Franco's Trio is a must, and the Flounder Francese on Fridays
Source: http://hamptonroads.com/2013/04/restaurant-review-francos-bay-norfolk
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